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The Intrepid Travellers

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Day 25: Natterersee Camping

Today was a basically a rest and recovery day. We've been pretty much on the go every day without too much thought of a break, so when Auds woke up with a headache (eventually becoming a migraine) and it was rainy and cold outside, we both were quite happy to just pull the covers back up and hibernate in our barrel for a while. We hadn't really planned anything particular to see in Innsbruck apart from the standard walking tour, and maybe some hiking about if the weather was right.



Auds took one of her 'miracle pills' and went back to sleep. From experience those things took a couple of hours to work, and there was no point trying to rush anything. I had the final few chapters of Lincoln Rhymes' latest adventures to catch up on, and then snuck out to go exploring when the rain eased a little. We'd seen very little of the camp last night as we had desperately tramped about in the rain trying to find someone who could give us a key.

This is the biggest caravan park I’ve ever seen. There is a big lake with canoes, kayaks, dodgem-boats, a waterpolo area and a couple of waterslides. There are table-tennis and billiards tables, a shooting range (air-pistol by the looks of it), and somewhere there was supposed to be a go-kart track but I couldn't find it. It was mostly mobile homes dotted about the place, but there were also many caravans, cabins, some keen campers, and of course – barrels.





I wandered about for 30 or 40 minutes and then got back to our barrel just a few minutes before Auds started to stir. Headache gone... miracle tablets for the win!  The rain had completely stopped now, but the cloud cover wasn't going anywhere. As soon as Auds was dressed we went for another tour of the park, and I excitedly pointed out all the things I'd found. As a side bonus we came across what we assumed was an area set up for school camps. There was several American-Indian tepees and a totem pole, a recently extinguised campfire and some catering marquees. What a fun school camp this would have been (especially if we came all the way from Aus). 




The fog, then drizzle, then rain, returned. Even a bit of donder and blitzen; we've both definitely felt more secure before than being tucked up in a little barrel. But it passed soon enough and the reassuring tap of rain on the roof was our soundtrack as we blogged/read/snoozed our way through the afternoon. A much needed recuperative day. 

We headed to the onsite restaurant for some excellent Austrian cuisine at very reasonable prices. Not cheap, but given the location, they had most of us over a barrel (some of us in them) and could have charged what they liked. I had a classic viener schnitzel with a delicious potato salad and Auds went with a goulash soup you could eat with a fork. Two excellent choices.  Having polished those off, our minds soon drifted to dessert. The old bloke at the next table must have said at least 6 times 'That is the best apple strudel I've ever eaten'. Not sure if he was doing it for our benefit but it sure seemed like it. I think more likely no one was listening to him, perhaps he was used to it.



In any case it was enough to convince us to try some … perhaps he'd never eaten apple strudel before, or perhaps they do a particularly crappy one in York (he was from 'oop nooorf' somewhere). It was nice, but I reckon my Grandma does a better job. Hi Grandma! … hint hint :) Slightly disappointed we paid up and headed back to our barrel in the rain. We still had no internet access so we fished out the maps and guidebooks to see what we might be able to get up to tomorrow if the weather improves.

Day 24: Chur to Natterersee

We woke early, and really appreciated the view from Matthias and Andrina's apartment for the first time- our window looked out over the whole city, and it had snowed in the mountains overnight. 

Realising we should probably work out where we were going to sleep in Austria that night (our next couchsurfing family in Innsbruck had to back out last minute- lame) we searched until I came across a site that offered not a room, but a "sleeping barrel" in a tiny rural lakeside village called Natterer See. Now that's just not something you pass on lightly. Booked. 
Matt with Matthias and Andrina 
A well from Roman? times - still existing in a beautiful old church
We then had a yummy breakfast with our new buddies Matthias and Andrina (delicious smoothies - thanks Andrina!) before they took us out to explore the town and church. The old town is ancient- really quiet and beautiful, and the people are so helpful and nice, even when we appalled them by trying to speak German. Which Matt has a bit of an affinity for. Who knew? I mainly stuck to giggling at the semi-dirty sounding street names and snapping pics. 

The Bishops Vineyard

lol ... Wangs Pizol

We then went to a restaurant that has been open since 1522 (older than your country, the waitress reminded me). You can see the original features of the place, including the wooden beam with the year of construction carved in. 

Overlooking Chur and the valley beyond
Matt and I had capuns, a traditional local dish, and I'm hooked. You get about ten of them. It's the most delicious sausage-type minced meat, mixed with herbs and veggies, then wrapped in seasoned dough, which is wrapped in Swiss chard, and swimming in a delicious sauce. I don't know what kind. But I will find out and make it-- got the inspiration here to collect recipes of favourite local dishes of each country we visit on our trip.

Capuns - they may not look like much, but YUM!
We sipped a local soft drink called Rivella and chatted about everything from family to politics to cooking -- the Swiss (or at least these two) are so well informed about global happenings and political systems, it was really interesting to hear what was happening in their country and what they thought of it. I guess this is the point of couchsurfing, and have to say I'm hooked. 

They then walked back to the station with us and we said our goodbyes-- (guys, if you read this, please come see us in Aus!! )

Our train arrived in rainy Innsbruck, and it became abundantly clear that my summery gear was not going to cut it in freezing cold, gusty Austria. Through a stroke of immense luck (as we of course hadn't bothered to plan this) we somehow caught the only and last bus to a place called Natters, which we we reasonably sure / guessed must be near Natterer see. Natters was a tiny village, mainly farmers and corn and cows and edelweiss (well not sure it was actually edelweiss, but it was definitely small and white, clean and bright-- yes my botanical knowledge comes from musicals, what of it).

We decided to walk from there to the lake- about 45 minutes. It was absolutely deserted except for the cornfields, the cows and their tinkling cowbells on our valley walk, which obviously presented fine opportunity for yodelling. Which we did. A lot.



During a particularly good one, a shiny white Audi (completely out of place here among the hay carts) glided up and the owner offered us a ride to the campsite. I'd had enough hitch hiking for one trip, and there would be no cows or charming sound of music type edelweiss in his car, so we politely declined. We began to regret that choice when we still hadn't found the place a while later and dark was setting in.

No ride in a plush Audi, but we found Edelweiss (maybe)

We reached the campsite and checked in, getting our keys to our barrel, which proved to be just that. A charming barrel, (yes charming barrel) with plenty of room to sleep two with a tiny bench area as well. So cosy and cute with red and white gingham curtains even--Hansel and Gretel may have been the previous occupants...

Home Sweet Barrel
We then found a traditional and cosy warm Austrian restaurant on site serving delicious local meals, and we had shandies, goulash, schnitzel, and strudel while watching the rain come down on the lake outside. Aaahhh. 

The Austrians know how to do potato salad awesomely.

Even the shower rooms were amazing, with lighted mirrors, hair dryers (massive luxury at this point, but I still didn't bother) and amazingly hot showers. Quick run in the light rain back to our barrel, and verdict is in: best campsite ever. We stole the shower head.