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The Intrepid Travellers

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Day 24: Chur to Natterersee

We woke early, and really appreciated the view from Matthias and Andrina's apartment for the first time- our window looked out over the whole city, and it had snowed in the mountains overnight. 

Realising we should probably work out where we were going to sleep in Austria that night (our next couchsurfing family in Innsbruck had to back out last minute- lame) we searched until I came across a site that offered not a room, but a "sleeping barrel" in a tiny rural lakeside village called Natterer See. Now that's just not something you pass on lightly. Booked. 
Matt with Matthias and Andrina 
A well from Roman? times - still existing in a beautiful old church
We then had a yummy breakfast with our new buddies Matthias and Andrina (delicious smoothies - thanks Andrina!) before they took us out to explore the town and church. The old town is ancient- really quiet and beautiful, and the people are so helpful and nice, even when we appalled them by trying to speak German. Which Matt has a bit of an affinity for. Who knew? I mainly stuck to giggling at the semi-dirty sounding street names and snapping pics. 

The Bishops Vineyard

lol ... Wangs Pizol

We then went to a restaurant that has been open since 1522 (older than your country, the waitress reminded me). You can see the original features of the place, including the wooden beam with the year of construction carved in. 

Overlooking Chur and the valley beyond
Matt and I had capuns, a traditional local dish, and I'm hooked. You get about ten of them. It's the most delicious sausage-type minced meat, mixed with herbs and veggies, then wrapped in seasoned dough, which is wrapped in Swiss chard, and swimming in a delicious sauce. I don't know what kind. But I will find out and make it-- got the inspiration here to collect recipes of favourite local dishes of each country we visit on our trip.

Capuns - they may not look like much, but YUM!
We sipped a local soft drink called Rivella and chatted about everything from family to politics to cooking -- the Swiss (or at least these two) are so well informed about global happenings and political systems, it was really interesting to hear what was happening in their country and what they thought of it. I guess this is the point of couchsurfing, and have to say I'm hooked. 

They then walked back to the station with us and we said our goodbyes-- (guys, if you read this, please come see us in Aus!! )

Our train arrived in rainy Innsbruck, and it became abundantly clear that my summery gear was not going to cut it in freezing cold, gusty Austria. Through a stroke of immense luck (as we of course hadn't bothered to plan this) we somehow caught the only and last bus to a place called Natters, which we we reasonably sure / guessed must be near Natterer see. Natters was a tiny village, mainly farmers and corn and cows and edelweiss (well not sure it was actually edelweiss, but it was definitely small and white, clean and bright-- yes my botanical knowledge comes from musicals, what of it).

We decided to walk from there to the lake- about 45 minutes. It was absolutely deserted except for the cornfields, the cows and their tinkling cowbells on our valley walk, which obviously presented fine opportunity for yodelling. Which we did. A lot.



During a particularly good one, a shiny white Audi (completely out of place here among the hay carts) glided up and the owner offered us a ride to the campsite. I'd had enough hitch hiking for one trip, and there would be no cows or charming sound of music type edelweiss in his car, so we politely declined. We began to regret that choice when we still hadn't found the place a while later and dark was setting in.

No ride in a plush Audi, but we found Edelweiss (maybe)

We reached the campsite and checked in, getting our keys to our barrel, which proved to be just that. A charming barrel, (yes charming barrel) with plenty of room to sleep two with a tiny bench area as well. So cosy and cute with red and white gingham curtains even--Hansel and Gretel may have been the previous occupants...

Home Sweet Barrel
We then found a traditional and cosy warm Austrian restaurant on site serving delicious local meals, and we had shandies, goulash, schnitzel, and strudel while watching the rain come down on the lake outside. Aaahhh. 

The Austrians know how to do potato salad awesomely.

Even the shower rooms were amazing, with lighted mirrors, hair dryers (massive luxury at this point, but I still didn't bother) and amazingly hot showers. Quick run in the light rain back to our barrel, and verdict is in: best campsite ever. We stole the shower head.

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