Day 10: Massa Lubrense to Vesuvius

Our final day on the Sorrentina Penisola. I'm not 14 anymore so I won't laugh at that. Hahahaha.

It really isn't very far from Massa Lubrense to Pompeii, and even shorter from there to Ercolano (Herculaneum) and then Vesuvius. We had figured we could probably do them all in the one day without too much effort. As it turned out we both needed a sleep-in, and those narrow, curvy, steep and unmarked roads aren't the easiest in the world to navigate. Co-pilot Schueren is becoming quite adept at overseeing and overruling the navagatrix's directions...

Navagatrix: 'In 300 yards, at the roundabout take the first exit'

Judge Schueren: 'Nope, stupid thing, just go straight!'

theatre at Pompeii

We made it to Pompeii right around 12, having just paid 2 euros for an unnecessary 30 seconds on the autostrada, and were immediately coerced into some valet parking. Also got sucked into buying a guide book, but the guy gave a special price just for me, 5 euros. What a champ. I definitely got a deal there. We walked straight over to a surprisingly short queue and bought our entry tickets. We decided on the multi-site ticket, as we wanted to see Hercalaneum too, and it would be cheaper that way.

Anyway, we spent roughly the next 5 hours at Pompeii seeing a lot of old stuff which looks pretty

walls of houses and shops

much like it looked almost 2000 years ago. For those who don't know, the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79AD covered the city of Pompeii in an ash cloud which basically suffocated any living thing which wouldn't or couldn't escape. It also claimed more victims when pillagers came back to steal treasure and were poisoned by the toxic elements still remaining in the environment.

It was surreal to be walking around such a well-preserved example of a city from the time of the Romans. Every so often it just kept hitting me that these streets/houses/shops/baths were exactly where people were living and walking 2000 years ago. Incredible. We were too tight to pay for our own tour guide, but latched onto several others during the course of the day, and managed to catch a few details about various buildings and artifacts. Most of the brick and stone structures were intact, even the wooden frames in places, although most of that has since been restored or reconstructed.

wall fresco

The level of detail in these houses, particularly the upper class and politicians, but still true of every place we saw, was just remarkable. Every wall was covered with fresco decorations, the floor inlaid with mosaic tilework or sections of colored marble. Even the subterranean sections which likely would never have even been seen, were still finished to an equally impressive standard.

food market

In one house, you can even see the original beware of dog sign -- 'cave canum' inlaid in mosaic with the picture of a snarling beast. Unbelievable. Also a brothel with the original paintings outside each room depicting (graphically) the girls' specialties, and the stone beds.

Cave Canem

One of the less graphic brothel advertisements

House nameplate for CORNELIUM, a politician living in Pompeii 2000 years ago

As per usual, we took many pictures of lots of things (few more posted at the end), and ultimately ran out of time to visit the other sites. Our new host to be - Valentina - was living a short drive from Vesuvius anyway so we decided to check that out the next morning instead before our long drive up to Florence. If we had time we would see Ercolano too. We retrieved our car from the parking bay just before they locked the gates, and plugged in the gps coordinates of Valentina's place.

A short while later we arrived, somewhat hungry, at what the navigatrix proudly announced to be 'our destination'. Auds put through a quick call in Italian to let them know we thought we were outside. At least we think she said that. Apparently Valentina was unavailable, but it was answered by her mum. She confirmed she could see us outside, so we unloaded the bags and stuff from the car and she buzzed us through the gate. Stepping inside, she introduced herself as 'mama di Valentina', we each gave our names, and then Valentina popped out with small child in tow. The introductions repeated once more before we squeezed up four flights of stairs to the attic room. Complete with ensuite bathroom and small balcony with a direct view of Vesuvius, it looked like heaven to us. Ventilation seemed like a bit of an issue so we left the balcony door open and wedged open the bathroom window before setting out in search of food. 

We quickly worked out that Valentina and her mum might not really have any conversational English, as her mum gave us some garbled italian directions to a local pizza shop. No criticism of her or her mum, we were in their country, so any English spoken is seen as a bonus for us. In any case, Valentina's mother, or 'mum' as we've started calling her gave us directions to a local pizza shop which was recommended. Things were off to a good start when she pointed right but told us to go left. Then she thought better of it and told us a completely different way, starting in the other direction. Don't worry, it's only 300m away she assured us, can't miss it.

We nodded intently through the rest of mum's instructions and set off with stomachs rumbling. Needless to say, the instructions didn't go so well. Here's the highlights of our expedition:
- After 25 minutes we finally find the place, and it's not even serving food for another 45 minutes.
- We see some likely establishments just a little further down the road, but get there to find out they all are only serving drinks too.
- Asking around we hear of another good place ten minutes walk away.
-We run into Val and mum, who point us a third way and tell us to be home in a hour. (what?)

- We get lost again (ie, bad directions obviously) but find that place 25 minutes later

- We asked a total of seven people for directions during the course of our 90 minute trek.

- The pizza we eventually had was AMAZING. And they gave us a discount and free drinks for no known reason except possibly that we were out-of-towners. Pizzeria da Vito. Go there. It's the best reason to go to San Sebastiano.

By the time we got home again only half of each pizza was left but we plonked ourselves at the dining table to eat the remainders like civilized folk. Then we saw the artwork overlooking our meal. We think it was our host, her mum, and the child, but who knows. We hope not. But it was done by a family friend..... Usually the only breasts I expect to see at my meal belong to a chicken. Like the rock on luigi's couch we figured it was better to just not ask.

Good night all, we are off to the outskirts of Florence tomorrow. Long drive ahead. More pics below.

2000 year old preserved and plastered body of man as he was when the ash covered Pompeii

Table base belonging to wealthy family

Bodies found near the city gates

Vesuvius (now 1/3 as tall as it was pre eruption) overlooking Pompeii main square

Original carved fountain water basins have been modernised for tourists like this girl to fill bottles