Day 13: Florence

Well, at least we had intended to research Florence last night. What really happened was we read a bit then chatted and relaxed instead. So this morning we did a bit of last minute planning and then left for some more manic driving and arrived at Piazza Michelangelo a little after 11, snagging one of the last parking places, which a car 5cm larger might not have fit into.

Campanile and Duomo

True to form, we were running late for our walking tour-- we parked high above the city 10 minutes before we were due to begin. Oops. So instead we bought passes to the main attractions and had a self guided wander, climbing the campanile (tower next to the Duomo) then the baptistery, with a ceiling covered in paintings and gold leaf. It even got a wow from Matt- not an easy feat.

The baptistery was where Dante was baptised and it was easy to see where he got his inspiration for the circles of hell-- Renaissance Christians really went in for the gruesome imagery. Satan munching humans, etc. The detail was incredible though. We sat in there for a while just staring at the ceiling.

We then shoved our way through pushy artists and caricature makers (?) to a little sandwich shop, where the man and woman proceeded to happily ignore us as they flirted and sang to each other in gibbery Italian. We eventually convinced them to sell us a few sandwiches and made our way across the city to catch the afternoon walking tour, which focused on the Medici family. We were both really looking forward to it.

singing sammich makers

Unfortunately, the tour was staler than our sandwiches, and Matt commented that ancient Italian torture methods were still alive as the guide proceeded to bore us to no end. He continuously started a story that could have been interesting, then began mumbling, then talked about something completely different. We tried asking questions, but he looked at us blankly and changed the subject. So we ducked into the crowds at the Ponte Vecchio (gorgeous bridge covered in vendor stalls) and lost the group.

The one thing we did learn was that the campanile (previously mentioned tower) is actually open to climb to the very top, and we had somehow missed the stairs that continued up. We talked our way back in and made it to the top this time. After admiring the view, we decided this would be a good chance to test out the zoom function on the camera, and Matt snapped this one of a lovely Italian dinner party across town. (Phweet phwoo, roller girl.)

We wandered to the piazza outside the Palazzo Vecchio and took pictures of the famous copy of Michelangelo's David and several other pieces of amazing art that we were certain were important and could research later. Seeing that the museum (the former house of the Medici family) was open until midnight, we bought our tickets and then went looking for dinner.


We found a cute cafe with exposed brick walls and a yum looking menu, and I was sold. Matt got gnocchi with homemade pesto, and I decided to try faggotini (like little pasta parcels) stuffed with cheese and pear. A risk, but one of the best meals I've ever had. (Will be figuring out how to make this once back in Aus and with a kitchen. Guinea pigs, come on over.)

Less tasty was the pair of smokers who were sitting about 6 inches from our table and insisting on blowing their smoke into our plates of food, a popular European pastime. Matt protested, and they gave him nasty looks. Total hypocrites, we found, when a motorbike started up, blowing exhaust over them, and they had a fit... quite funny.

We then went back to the Palazzo Vecchio and spent a few hours wandering around the Hall of the Five Hundred, through the personal rooms of the family, and into the map room, which was really amazing. You can even see from ancient wear on the floor where there still exists a secret passageway entrance behind the map of Algeria, which swings out on hidden hinges. Love stuff like that. Obviously tried the hidden door when the guards weren't looking, but it was locked.

not-so-tricky secret passageway behind Algeria map

We also saw some graffiti from the 1600s, carefully scratched on a Vasari political satire painting no less, and actually making it even more interesting. Way to go, Scarpetini.

It was getting late at this point, so we made the half hour trek back to the car (the city is so much prettier at night without all the crowds of people), fired up the navigatrix and back home to Isabella's ex-monastery. Until next time, beautiful Florence.